Mid- to long-term functional outcome and return to sport after elbow dislocation in bouldering: a clinical retrospective cohort study

Review written by Dr Val Jones info

Key Points

  1. The elbow is one of the most commonly injured joints in bouldering.
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BACKGROUND & OBJECTIVE

The elbow is the second most commonly dislocated joint in adults, with an incidence of 5-6/100,000 (1). In males, the injury occurs usually from sports injuries and contact events, and in females occurs following a fall from a standing height, onto an outstretched hand. Elbow dislocations can be described as simple, without bony injury, or complex, where the dislocation is associated with a fracture (2). This injury can result in long term range and stability deficit preventing athletes from returning to their previous level of activity.

Bouldering is a modern discipline originated from traditional rock climbing, using short routes, without the use of a harness or ropes, using only a crash mat for protection in the event of a fall. It places particularly high forces upon the elbow. While elbow dislocations are infrequently seen in traditional climbing sports, they are seen more frequently in bouldering (3), usually following a fall onto a a mat, onto an outstretched hand, with the elbow in extension.

The aim of this study was to determine the effects of elbow dislocation on a patients’ future function and return to the sport.

The elbow is the second most commonly dislocated joint in adults, with an incidence of 5-6/100,000.
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Evaluation of psychological variables should be undertaken to determine whether an athlete is fit to return to sport following elbow fracture or dislocation.

METHODS

  • A retrospective review of all bouldering associated elbow dislocations treated at a single trauma centre over a nine-year period was undertaken.
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